There are no arrows, no obvious pins, no pin latches. This band is different than all of the ones I’ve ever sized. Does anyone know how to remove links from this band?
Edit: user Septimaeus was correct in that it was a fixed link band. The link they provided helped in understanding what is requires to resize, and the band now fits my wrist like it was made for it. Thanks!!
Fixed links are often machine-pressed w/ splined pins. Not designed for easy removal, however they can be removed by disassembly using basic tools and some force.
Disclaimer: while I would encourage you to use this as a learning opportunity if this is an inexpensive homage piece (that band looks like the one used on a number of older model Invicta submariner styles, for example) if it’s expensive or an heirloom, you might instead replace the band to keep the original intact. A lot of watch nerds do that anyway because the variety is fun.
Shoot. That’s what I was afraid of. It’s a Geneva brand. I found it at a thrift store, and thought it looked neat. I don’t actually know the true value.
It looks nice! If it also keeps the time, I’d say it’s a good find. (If by true value you mean resale estimate, about $10-15.)
It’s a good watch to tinker with, if you’d like to try. If your tools are limited or that’s too much hassle, many stylish and inexpensive replacement bands can be found online, even ones that look like the original. I’ll put brief instructions for that below.
If you’d like to replace the band, you can measure the lug width (e.g. 20mm) to find one that’s compatible. When you’re ready to swap the bands, you will find little spring bars beneath the lug joint covers.
If it’s difficult to reach the spring bars through the gaps, you can loosen each cover by slightly bending the two tensioner arms on the underside of the watch.
There are little notches on each side of the spring bar that you can catch with a small tool/knife/fingernail and compress, letting each side of the bracelet free.
Installation of the new band is the reverse but usually easier, especially if your new bracelet style doesn’t use a shroud over the lugs.
Then you’re done!
(Also, if you want to put the joint shrouds back at some point, just remember to pinch the tensioner arms a bit before reinstalling, otherwise they will be noisy when you move your hand.)
Normally these have pins that can be pushed out so you can remove links. The same way one would with tank tracks (which, of course, we all learned to do as children).
On that one, however, it seems to be done by moving the clasp.
Just move the pin to another pin hole?
okay my image didn’t upload. In the second picture, the pin is the third hole from the top.
I wasn’t talking about the micro adjustments. Sorry. I was talking about removing links.
Ok, I am looking at a similar one right now, and it appears that it has been adjusted.
One side is much shorter than the other and the short side seem to have been opened on the inside between the first and second link from the lock/narrow end. The first full “inside” clamp between two “outside” links has been opened and closed at some point.
It certainly has pins in the normal places. They must have been ground down after they were installed, making them extremely difficult to see.
If it was mine, I would grab each side of a link with a pair of pliers, and alternate between gently squeezing the sides together, and pulling them apart, with a very slight twisting action. I’m not trying to take it apart yet, just get enough movement in the pins to be able to identify them. Once found, remove like normal.
They may be extremely difficult to reinstall…
You could try some of the tricks used to expose the layers in Damascus steel: etching with various acids. The differing steels of the pins and the links may etch differently, revealing the pins.
Edit: at the time of this edit, not one other comment has even attempted to address OP’s question. The only other suggestions have been to move the pin in the clasp (which is so bleedingly obvious that I can’t believe that OP could have missed it; OP needs adjustment beyond the limits of the clasp) or to just buy a new band. (Again, bleedingly obvious).
What I described is certainly feasible for a patient and moderately skilled craftsman, and does not preclude the “advice” presented in other comments.
OP, consider hitting the pliers with an engraver while gently pulling. The vibrations may be enough to move it. If you’re familiar with how metal reacts to a torch and can avoid overheating, a butane torch might help the pins begin to move.
Remember: you’re only trying to find the pins. You’ll need to punch them out.